Such facts in hand, Cooking Sections declared Skye oysters a better “climavore” option: the right choice of how to eat as the climate changes. Whereas farmed salmon eat manufactured fish chow and foul the water with waste-pollution at the end of a global supply chain-oysters actually improve local environmental conditions. It is a very complex global network of species, ingredients, and technologies that are assembled all over the world and finished in Skye in the shape of a fish.”Īn oyster, by contrast, is assembled and finished in the sea, and a farm requires only very basic infrastructure. What is Scottish food today? ‘Scottish’ salmon on Skye is mostly owned by Norwegian multinational corporations. “Yet hundreds of thousands of tourists a year are going out there wanting to eat Scottish food. “There is a huge farmed-salmon industry in Skye, which has pretty much killed off the wild salmon population,” says the bearded, 33-year-old Schwabe via Skype. Which is precisely why London-based artists Alon Schwabe and Daniel Fernández Pascual, who collaborate under the name Cooking Sections, created an installation on Skye in the form of an oyster farm, part of their multiyear, multicontinent project “CLIMAVORE,” in 2015. Foodie slang would dub the ingredient “local,” a word of virtuous associations. Like a bison burger eaten at the gateway to Yellowstone National Park, salmon from local waters gives tourists a real taste of a mythic place. Tourists flock to the locale for its scenery, history, peat-flavored whisky, and celebrated salmon. From the mainland, Skye is a stepping-stone to the wild Outer Hebrides and into a storied Celtic past. The cold seas off the Isle of Skye, along the west coast of Scotland, surround nearly 409,000 craggy acres of moors, mist, and myth.
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